Day 4 (July 22, 2015): Scoping out Skopje

We got up this morning determined not to let the boiling temperatures of Skopje deter us.  We left the hotel just after 8am and ate breakfast at the same riverside terrace cafe where we ate dinner last night. The stifling heat didn't really kick in until late morning, so we were able to eat in relative cool.  

By 9am we were in a taxi to the 6th century Tvrdina Kale Fortress, overlooking the city. While we enjoyed climbing around the ramparts, it was clear that the Slovenians' manicured approach does not apply here. Skopje holds so much promise, but the public approach to their tourist sites lacks finesse. The Fortress, for example, was overgrown and delapidated, but could be a star attraction easily. I guess this is an aspect of Macedonia that will evolve as tourism starts to pick up. 

One of the towers in the 6th century Kale Fortress

Walking the ramparts offered wonderful views of Skopje 

Next we ventured into the old town, which is predominantly Muslim. It has mosques, winding lanes filled with eateries, a bric-a-brac market, and a gold souk.  I think Pam was drooling over all this 22-karat gold!

The Mustafa Pasa Mosque from 1492

The old town contains an inconspicuous and important piece of Christianity: the Sveti Spas Church.  It hails from a time when the Ottomans ruled and forbade churches to be higher than mosques.  So the church is partly underground. It features a 30-foot panel of the most intricately carved panels. 

The Sveti Spas ("seven gates") Church

The 30-foot carved icon panels of Sveti Spas Church

In the maze of old town, we did find the national art gallery in a beautifully restored hammam (Turkish bath). However, the place was completely empty. And I mean completely - not a single work of art. Another example of how the Macedonians have a long way to go to make this place tourist-ready. 

An old Turkish bath is now home to an art-less museum of art!

Next stop? The Memorial House of Mother Teresa.  Mother Teresa was born here, although she moved to Albania at age eight.  The new building that was constructed to commemorate her is a "retro-futuristic" design, but it was a moving memorial to an amazing woman of God.  

Memorial House of Mother Teresa

Mother Teresa's Nobel Peace Prize from 1979

In 2002, the highest cross in the world was constructed high above Skopje to commemorate 2000 years of Christianity in Macedonia. We took a cab to the midway point of Mount Vodna and then took a gondola to the top to see the cross up close. Wonderful views of Skopje. 

The mount Vodna "rope-way" or gondola

The Millenium Cross from 2002 atop Mount Vodna, commemorating 2000 years of Christianity in Macedonia

We returned to the city via a double-decker city bus.  In the blazing sun and 37C, we wandered around Macedonian Square again, stopping to view more statues, and to look at the impressive "Warrior on a Horse" statue in different light from that of dusk last evening.  

The impressive "Warrior on a Horse" statue in Macedonian Square

After recharging with iced chocolate drinks, we ducked into the air conditioning of the impressive new Archeaological Museum of Macedonia. The exhibits were well done, but with very little English, we couldn't understand much. 

The Archaeological Museum of Macedonia

Life here in such extreme heat is all about staying cool.  So next up was an air-conditioned shopping mall!  And then dinner by the river again, to round out the day.  This time, in an Italian restaurant.

I mentioned the statues yesterday, but they merit repeating:  Skopje has more statues than a cake has sprinkles (that was Pam's analogy!). 

Statues along the river walk

Statues at the opera house 

Statues on the Artists' Bridge

We were pleased to have covered so much ground in the extreme heat. And we are wrapping up country number two on this tour with a good sense of life here.  Tomorrow is a 4:30am rise to catch our bus to the Albanian coast.  Good night from Skopje!